Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan review – a memoir of an obsession, Sport and leisure books

For the New Yorker writer, chasing waves was far more than a sport. It was a calling, a means of working out his place in the world

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Barbarian Days by William Finnegan

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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by Finnegan, William

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Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by Finnegan, William

Book Review: Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life by William Finnegan - New Zealand Surf Journal